Lockhart is a quiet Texas town about an hour’s drive
southeast of Austin. At one time, it was
considered the center of the barbecue universe, with several great joints in
town. For this trip, I wanted to sample
the offerings at Black’s Barbecue. I
have eaten at their Austin “outpost” several times, but this trip gave me the
chance to eat at their original restaurant.
Black’s is located at 215 North Main Street, just a
couple of blocks north of the big county courthouse. Opened in 1932, it is the oldest barbecue
joint in Texas still owned by the same family.
Texas Monthly had previously named them as one of the 50 best joints in
the state, so I was looking forward to this. . .
When you first walk into Black’s, your nose is hit
with the sweet, sweet smell of barbecue.
At the end of a short walkway lined with photos, you grab a plate and
choose any side dishes you might want: beans, cole slaw, mac and cheese, rice,
etc. I normally skip the sides, but I
had to see if their pecan cobbler is as good as what they serve in Austin. Then you make your way to the cutting board
where you order your meat. Kirkland
oversaw things as I ordered a half pound of moist brisket and a couple of pork
ribs.
The brisket was superb: very tender, delicious outer
bark, deep smoky flavor. My taste buds
were in heaven. The ribs were also
impressive. The meat had a sweet, smoky
flavor and was very tender, easily biting from the bone. My wife gave me a bite of their smoked
turkey. It was a bit dry, but also very
smoky. They had sauce on the table, but
I never used a drop of it. And the pecan
cobbler – oh boy was it good. After I
ate, I had a chance to speak with Kirkland and the cutting crew. Really super people.
Edgar Black and his wife Norma Jean managed the family
business for over sixty years. They were
very proud that they were the first business in Lockhart to integrate,
believing anybody, regardless of race, can work hard and do good if given the
chance. Mr. Black passed away in 2017 at
the age of 91. The Black’s are now into
their fifth generation of family members working and running the
restaurant.
Great barbecue, great people. . . it’s easy to see why the famous, the not so
famous, and the infamous have made the pilgrimage to Lockhart for all these
years. Oh and by the way, the play we
saw that night was also a lot of fun. Black’sBarbecue in Lockhart. . . a classic
Texas barbecue joint.
I rate this barbecue two Hook ‘Ems!
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